The Best And Worst Beauty Products To Wear Under The Sun

As the adage goes: timing is everything. So, finding the perfect products for your skin type is as important as the best time of the day to apply them in your skincare routine. If you don’t already know, there are ingredients in your beauty products that don’t like to mix; read on to find out more.  

We asked skincare experts your burning beauty questions relating to hyaluronic acid, retinol and the sun or other skincare ingredients: ‘Does hyaluronic acid increase sun sensitivity?‘, ‘What happens if you use vitamin C without sunscreen’ and the danger of Salicylic acid and sun exposure..’  

Here’s your summer skin plan.  

The best ingredients to use in the sun

The following ingredients, and associated products, are not photosensitive. They have been shown to be safe to use in conjunction with sun screen and will not cause sensitivity after being in the sun. 

Hyaluronic acid

Does hyaluronic acid increase sun sensitivity?

It doesn’t increase sun sensitivity. Experts say this is one of the safest skincare ingredients to apply under the sun. It boosts moisture within the skin and is suitable for all skin types.  

“Yes, absolutely. Hyaluronic acid is not photosensitive but easily broken down by free radicals and UV light. So it is recommended to apply products with hyaluronic acid under your sunscreen,”

Dr Pamela Benito, Aesthetic Medicine Specialist. 

Can you wear hyaluronic acid in the sun?

Absolutely! Hyaluronic acid is a popular skincare ingredient known for its hydrating properties and it is generally safe to wear in the sun, but it’s important to remember that it itself is not sunscreen. If you’re using a hyaluronic acid serum or moisturiser in the sun, it’s important to still use sunscreen to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.

The Clarins Team suggests trying products from the Hydra-Essential Range. The cream, serum, lip balm, and facial mist in this range are infused with plant-based hyaluronic acid called ‘leaf of life’, which can absorb moisture like a sponge, retaining water in the heart of its leaves. In skincare, it keeps skin hydrated, fresh, soft, plumped skin, and radiant.  

Our top pick is Hydra-Essentiel [HA²] Matte Gel. It is the perfect lightweight, everyday moisturiser in summer. It has a cooling gel-cream texture that instantly melts into the skin without the iky feel. Leaving your skin moisturised even in challenging environments. Explore the range here.  

Vitamin C

Is it OK to wear Vitamin C in the sun? Yes! Experts recommend wearing Vitamin C enriched products as they are generally safe to use on all skin types. But does Vitamin C make skin sensitive to the sun? The answer is that Vitamin C will not make your skin more vulnerable to sunburn and will even protect the skin from sun damage. This ingredient is photosensitive, which means that it breaks down on contact with the sun, oxidising and losing its effectiveness.

Superfood turmeric is rich in vitamin C and is the hero ingredient in Double Serum. Studies have shown that curcumin, a chemical compound found in turmeric, can decrease UV damage.  

Of course, SPF is still vital in everyday skincare routine so don’t forget it whenever you are going out. 

“This is helpful to wear under the sun. Vitamin C is an antioxidant shown to protect against the damage done by harmful UV rays in the sun and reduce sunburn. It also promotes collagen and is helpful for pigmentation. I recommend applying this before sunscreen.” 

- Dr Gao

Products you shouldn’t use in the sun?

Experts say that certain active ingredients and chemicals in our everyday beauty products, like fragrances, sunscreen (quite ironic), and serums (more on that below), increase one’s skin’s sensitivity to the sun. This type of reaction is called photosensitivity and can lead to sunburn, redness, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation. 

Retinol

Should I skip my retinol when the sun’s out? “Retinoid products are the gold standard topical treatment for wrinkles and have many benefits. But products such as Retin-A, tretinoin, tazarotene, and retinol can make skin extra sensitive to the sun,” says Dr Mia Jing Gao, London based Consultant Dermatologist.

To avoid risks, use gentler retinol alternatives and reap the same – if not better – benefits. 

What are the best alternatives to retinol?

Organic Harungana is a plant-based active ingredient, which has been shown to work 40% more effectively than the far better-known retinol. It is found in the Super Restorative Range. It is so gentle that organic Harungana is safe around the eye. A dream come true for people who want to put retinol in the delicate eye contours.

Try the Total Eye Lift. This silky gel-cream texture glides onto the eye area and visibly lifts the eyelids while reducing puffiness and dark circles in only 60-seconds. Safe to use day and night. Explore the range here. 

Salicylic acid

Ingredients that facilitate skin cell turnover, including beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) and alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic and lactic acids), are said to make your skin more sensitive to the sun, per the FDA. Experts warn that ‘chemical exfoliators’ leave the skin prone to sunburn because they remove a protective layer of skin.

Dr Benito advises using salicylic acid-infused products in the summer very carefully! You must use a “broad-spectrum SPF 50 and reapply every 2-3 hours.” Be fastidious if you sweat or swim as you really don’t want to cause skin damage. For sensitive types – it might be best left to the PM. 

Photosensitive fragrances

Unfortunately, some of the fragrances on the market contain chemicals that cause sun-induced skin sensitivity, so opting for a non-photosensitive fragrance is a safe summer scent option.

“I advise caution with some fragrances and ingredients such as musk. This is one of the most common causes of photoallergic contact dermatitis when an ingredient causes an allergic reaction only after being exposed to the sun,” Dr Gao says.

We recommend non-photosensitive scents like the Eau Extraordinaire. It smells delicious, thanks to notes of jasmine, patchouli, red ginger, and a sparkling twist of citrus; furthermore, it’s also enriched with hyaluronic acid plant derivative organic leaf of life that leaves the skin hydrated and fresh.

Charlotte McHale, Clarins Training Manager, assures: “All the ingredients in Clarins treatment fragrances have been tested for photosensitivity. In addition, the beet-derived alcohol in the fragrance completely evaporates, leaving the sun safe skincare ingredients on the skin.”

When to apply sunscreen in a skincare routine?

SPF should always be the last step of your morning skincare routine. The general rule of thumb is after your moisturiser or face oil. It should be the final step in your skincare regimen or the first step in your make-up routine before primer or foundation.

But be wary, Dr Gao adds: “Some ingredients in sunscreen such as oxybenzone can cause allergies in a small number of individuals. If you find that you consistently get a rash after applying sunscreen and sun exposure, it may be worth having a ‘photopatch test’ which is an allergy test done by a dermatologist to check for photoallergy.”

You can try out Sun Spray Lotion Very High Protection SPF50+ if you are looking for a spray format that allows for quick and easy application. It is also suitable for outdoor activities with no sticky residue.

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