What Causes Hyperpigmentation And How Do You Get Rid Of It?

Hyperpigmentation was one of the biggest skincare concerns, according to The 2021 Skinfluencer Report, driving people to Google: “The best skincare for hyperpigmentation.”

While it is harmless and can manifest as pesky post-acne scars or dark patches on the skin caused by hormonal imbalance, it can also indicate the existence of other underlying illnesses.

We did a deep dive into what causes dark spots to solve your hyperpigmentation woes with the help of the pros.

What is hyperpigmentation?

First, a quick science lesson: Our skin colour is determined by a pigment called melanin produced by specialised cells called melanocytes. These are found in the stratum basale layer (the innermost layer of the epidermis).

Melanin’s role is to protect the skin against sun damage. Sunburn or a tan is a sign of UV damage.

But when the melanocytes become unhealthy or damaged, it accelerates melanin production, causing ‘abnormal’ skin pigmentation.

“Hyperpigmentation occurs when our melanin builds up under the skin and forms patches large enough to be seen on the surface of the skin,” explains Julie Brown, founder of The Source Clinic and certified beauty therapist.

What causes hyperpigmentation?

“Hyperpigmentation is when certain areas of your skin are darker than the rest. There are multiple causes known for triggering hyperpigmentation: sun exposure, irritation from skincare products, melasma, ageing process, inflammation on the skin, and allergic drug reaction to other very rare medical conditions,” Dr Anastasia Therianou MD, PhD, London-based NHS consultant dermatologist tells us.

Here, we list seven common causes of hyperpigmentation and ways to treat them.

1. UV exposure

Unprotected and extreme sun exposure leads to irreversible sun-damaged skin issues, including hyperpigmentation. This can manifest on the skin in the form of dark patches, freckles, sun spots, or, more generally, uneven skin complexion.

Unfortunately, it is irreparable when the damage is done, but you can minimise and protect yourself from further deterioration through skincare products and treatments.

Treatments: We recommend using products from the Extra-Firming Range. The key ingredient, acerola, is a potent vitamin C derivative proven to target hyperpigmentation. Extra-Firming Energy 

Extra-Firming Energy is a 2-in-1 treatment that combines Clarin's expertise in firmness with the enhancing effect of a radiance cream. It is a concentrate of energising fruit extracts and 4 next-generation pearlescent pigments (green, blue, red, and gold) that capture the natural light and reflect it on the skin, bringing an instant enhancing effect on all skin tones.

2. Pollution particles

Another hyperpigmentation culprit is air pollution. Experts say people who live in cities are more likely to develop 22% skin pigmentation than those who live in rural areas due to prolonged and repetitive exposure to environmental pollution and the sun.

Treatments: Given the toxic combination of UV and pollution, it’s essential to invest in anti-pollution skincare. Thankfully, there are a whole lot of products available in the market to pollution-proof your skin.

We recommend double cleansing after a long day spent outdoors and removing dirt and debris from the skin trapped in layers of SPF and makeup via Velvet Cleansing Milk.

“It is formulated with moringa extract that’s known for removing debris from the skin. It’s a good way to purify your skin after being exposed to all kinds of pollutants,” Charlotte McHale, Clarins Training Manager, says.

3. Post-inflammation, acne, or injury

When the skin goes through an injury, trauma, or inflammatory phase, such as acne or eczema, the skin is left darkened or discoloured and that’s called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Yes, your stubborn post-acne mark is also a form of hyperpigmentation.

Treatments: To effectively fade away spot scars, Clarins recommends Bright Plus Advanced Dark Spot-Targeting Serum. It contains all the dark spot-fighting ingredients, such as vitamin C and new organic sea lily, to fight hyperpigmentation. It also contains rose-myrtle and acerola seeds to promote cell oxygenation, which both help improve blood circulation to the face. In turn, this makes skin look bright and evens out the complexion.

4. Hormonal imbalance

Some pregnant women may develop a type of hyperpigmentation called melasma or the ‘mask of pregnancy.’ Dr Therianou explains: “Melasma is caused by hormones, genetics, pregnancy and sun exposure combined.”

Experts say it is usually not a long-term skin condition and fades within a few months of delivery.

Treatments: Wear high SPF to prevent it from becoming a permanent issue. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), wearing sun-protective clothing, like a sun hat, will help. Wide-brimmed hats that surround the head offer the most protection.

Clarins' UV PLUS [5P] Anti-Pollution SPF 50 Translucent protects your skin against 5 pollutants encountered in everyday life: atmospheric, indoor, pollen, blue light and photo-pollution. It also hydrates and cares for the skin, thanks to 74% skin-caring ingredients.

5. Ageing

Age spots typically start to appear later in life, but this largely depends on the amount of sun the skin has been exposed to.

Experts say age spots usually appear on areas of the skin that are often in sunlight, such as the face, hands, arms, shoulders, and neck area.

Treatments: Plant and fruit extracts, such as desert date and hexylresorcinol, have been scientifically proven to reduce the appearance of age spots and are key ingredients in the Clarins’ 60 and up Nutri-Lumière Range.

The Nutri-Lumière Day Cream was crowned the winner ‘Better not younger’ by The Sunday Times Style Beauty Awards in 2020. It soothes and reinvigorates tired-looking skin while promoting an even complexion.

Then there’s Montepellier rock rose, researched in partnership with the National Institute for Health and Medical Research, which targets the dark spots linked to ageing, especially following hormonal changes. Result? A reduction of 48.9 % in age spots after two months of using Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream.

6. Extreme digital screen exposure

Yes, too much Instagramming and watching Netflix can lead to hyperpigmentation. So limit your electronic device usage to avoid dark spots from developing.

Research shows that blue light from digital devices can lead to changes in skin cells, including cell shrinkage and even cell death. These changes speed up the ageing process, and, mind you, exposures as short as 60 minutes can trigger these changes.

It’s also worth mentioning that dark circles are also a form of hyperpigmentation called periorbital hyperpigmentation.

If you are not aware, lack of sleep is not the leading cause of dark circles but hyperpigmentation. It is caused by environmental (sun exposure, smoking, and diet) and genetic factors.

Treatments: The Double Serum Eye is McHale’s product recommendation for all of us glued to our devices. It has gained its’s status and five-star reviews – it effectively fights fatigue-related eye issues caused by blue light.

What do dermatologists recommend for hyperpigmentation?”

Brown suggests three things: vitamin C, natural retinol, and SPF and here’s why:

1. Broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher

One of the ways to prevent hyperpigmentation from worsening or, better yet, from happening is by religiously applying sunscreen and staying out of direct sunlight.

The UV PLUS [5P] is the top recommendation from us. If you would like a bit of tinted rose to your skin as a base for foundation, or simply just a bright no makeup look, UV PLUS [5P] Anti-Pollution SPF 50 Rose is your choice. 

2. Does vitamin C help with hyperpigmentation?

Vitamin C (also called L-ascorbic acid) is best known for its brightening properties and ability to fade hyperpigmentation. Along with hyaluronic acid and salicylic acid, it was one of the three most-searched-for skincare ingredients last year.

Superfood turmeric is rich in vitamin C and is the hero ingredient in Double Serum. Along with 21 powerful plant ingredients, it boosts the skin’s five vital functions—hydration, nutrition, oxygenation, protection, and regeneration—to visibly fight all signs of ageing.

3. Retinol for hyperpigmentation?

Another active ingredient is the potent vitamin A derivative, retinol. It helps cells regenerate and accelerates skin cell turnover hence the shedding revealing a brighter and reduced appearance of hyperpigmentation.

Organic Harungana, used in Madagascar traditional medicine to heal wounds and has been shown to work 40% more effectively than the far better-known retinol.

Harungana is found in all Clarins' Super Restorative products.

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