4 Types Of Acne And How To Treat Them, According To Experts

What type of acne do I have? Distinguishing a papule from a pustule is not the most exciting topic, but certainly, a key one to achieving a spotless face. Acne can take several forms, and treatments require specific approaches.   

We look at the 4 different types of acne. To break down the specific treatments for each type of acne, we consulted with one of America’s top physicians and CEO at Atlanta Dermatology, Darren Casey, and leading NHS Consultant Dermatologists: Dr Gabriela Petrof and Dr Anastasia Therianou.  

1. Blackheads and Whiteheads

“Blackheads and whiteheads fall under the category of comedonal acne,” says Darren Casey, M.D. US-based Dermatologist and CEO at Atlanta Dermatology.

Whiteheads (closed comedones) are closed pores clogged with dead skin cells, dirt and excess sebum. They appear as tiny bumps, white or flesh-coloured, on the skin’s surface.

Blackheads (open comedones) are the same, except they are open. The black dots aren’t filled with dirt, so experts suggest resisting scrubbing because it will only worsen the acne.

Both are called “non-inflammatory” acne simply because they are not inflamed and don’t cause swelling.

Treatment Plan:

If pores are not properly cleaned, they can turn into pimples. Skincare experts suggest exfoliating once or twice a week. More than that will irritate your skin.

The Fresh Scrub works best for all skin types. This exfoliator gives your skin a blast of freshness and radiance as it removes impurities and dead skin cells using two different-sized natural beads made from wood cellulose.

However, people with oily skin might benefit from the salicylic acid beads from the Comfort Scrub. This exfoliator gently removes dead skin cells while deep-cleansing pores. It contains sugar microcrystals from beetroot to combat skin dryness by gently removing dead skin cells.

2. Papules

If blackheads and whiteheads are infected by bacteria, they may become irritated and turn into another type of acne called acne papules – or inflamed comedones, a.k.a. pimples or zits.

These are tiny, hard red bumps, all caused by excess sebum, bacteria and dead skin cells.

Treatment Plan:

Casey recommends washing the face gently with warm water and a gentle cleanser twice daily and after exercise. Also, avoid makeup when exercising or sleeping. If you have dry skin, use Hydrating Gentle Foaming Cleanser to gently wash away impurities, makeup, and pollution, while protecting the skin’s hydrolipidic film from the drying effects of hard water.

Experts say exercise can lead to open pores, which can become blocked by particles of makeup. Furthermore, sleeping with makeup on can clog the pores resulting in the development of acne.

Keep an acne control spot treatment like MyClarins Pure-Reset Targeted Blemish Lotion for days that need to zap spots quickly. It is infused with salicylic acid to reduce swelling. Apply directly to imperfections morning and evening.

3. Pustules

Next are the pus-filled pimples called pustules. These are the super tempting zits to squeeze – but please don’t, as this would leave permanent acne scars. This acne is similar to papules, except that pustules have a yellow- or white coloured centre.

Treatment Plan:

The American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends washing your face with cleansers that contain benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid.

Try using a salicylic cleanser like the Purifying Gentle Foaming Cleanser. This creamy, rinse-off cleanser for oily skin is formulated with mattifying Organic Meadowsweet extract and pore-cleansing blue granules made with salicylic acid. Follow with Purifying Toning Lotion, which can be used day and night for best results. This pore-minimising toner is enriched with meadowsweet extract to limit excess sebum and witch hazel extract to rebalance the skin. It delivers a mattifying effect that controls excess oil and shines without drying out the complexion.

“Treatment depends on the acne severity,” says Dr Gabriela Petrof, MBBS, PhD, NHS Consultant Dermatologist.

4. Cysts And Nodules

Nodular acne and cystic acne are two of the most severe forms of acne. They are both formed deep under the surface of the skin. These are large and swollen and can hurt just to the touch – they are also unsqueezable, so leave well alone.

Unlike regular pimples, these acne types tend not to form a head. Therefore, attempting to squeeze them will not release pus and may lead to further inflammation and hyperpigmentation.

Healthline describes that cystic acne can look like large, red boils, but because they’re filled with pus, cysts are softer than nodular acne.

Acne cysts develop when blackheads or whiteheads spread into surrounding areas of the skin. The body responds to this, and the local immune system produces pus. By contrast, acne nodules remain intact, deep under the skin.

Treatment Plan:

To manage smaller cysts and nodules, you can use skincare products with salicylic acid. Serum like My Clarins PURE-RESET Resurfacing Blemish Serum to visibly reduce imperfections.

Why do some people get some types of acne and not others?

Dr Anastasia Therianou MD, PhD, London-based NHS consultant dermatologist, says: “Some people get acne while others don’t because of their genetic predisposition. Therefore, some people are more susceptible to acne due to genes.”

A study found that if both parents have acne, you’re more likely to get more severe acne early. If one or both of your parents have adult acne, you have a higher risk of getting it too.

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